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Novato Hiking & Biking
All Text and Photos by Ted Strodder © 2010



Olompali Park Map

Trail at Olompali brimming with history

Tracy Dunham
Marin IJ
Launched 10/24/2007

Olompali State Historic Park just north of Novato borders the county's main transportation artery, Highway 101. The old thoroughfare, Redwood Highway, also passed by the property, making it a prime location for interesting events, both historic and modern.

This land is steeped in layers of history that began with a Miwok village. Under Galen Burdell's ownership, Rancho Olompali thrived in the late 1800s. The property is also known for its more recent history, mostly that members of the Grateful Dead and other celebrities lived there in the 1960s. There are few places in Marin where so much has happened on a single piece of land.

An excellent introduction to Olompali is to walk the hillside trails, see the overview of the land and then loop back through the cluster of historic buildings. Walking up the Mount Burdell Trail and returning via the Loop Trail creates a mildly strenuous 2.7-mile hike.

The Mount Burdell Trail starts at the parking lot and zigzags up the mountainside. Pause at viewpoints to examine Olompali's ranch houses, mansion, orchard, fields and tall palm trees.

Heading down the Loop Trail through forest of oak, bay and madrone, the path widens and follows an old ranch road. The small dam and reservoir date to the days of the Burdell family. The trail passes through a re-created Coast Miwok village that was built by volunteers and park staff.

James Black purchased Rancho Olompali land in 1852 and deeded it to his daughter Mary when she married Galen Burdell in 1865. The cottages, blacksmith shop, barns and orchard date from 1850s to 1870s. The Burdell frame house built in 1874 now holds a small visitor center and park administrative offices. Mary Burdell had a large formal garden with fountains and exotic plants and trees. The oldest structure on the property is an adobe home that dates to the 1830s.

Rancho Olompali remained in the Burdell family until 1943. After a succession of owners, it became a hippie commune in the '60s that attracted a number of celebrities. That era ended in 1969 when a fire destroyed much of the 26-room mansion that had been built in 1911.

I don't know the real translation of the word Olompali, but to me it means "a curious place of many uses."

Olompali State Historic Park is located three miles north of Novato on the west side of Highway 101. Access to the park is only from the southbound lanes. Drive north and make a U-turn by crossing over the overpass at the sanitary fill. Day use fee is $5 per car.



String 7 trails for a great Novato trek

INDIAN VALLEY Open Space in the Ignacio neighborhood of southern Novato features a variety of trails in a rather compact space. Wildflowers, cascading creeks and a waterfall are some of the highlights along the trails.

Most of the 5.5-mile trek is moderately strenuous, but there are a few steep sections along the way. If you have a hiking stick it will be helpful at creek crossings.

You may need a notebook to list all the trail names, but the area is well-signed. For this interesting hike, string together the Indian Valley Fire Road, Ad Schwindt Trail, Buzzard Burn Road, Wildcat Trail, Hill Ranch Trail, Waterfall Trail and Pacheco Pond Fire Road.

The main access to this open space is through the parking lot at College of Marin's Indian Valley campus. Drive into the campus and follow the main road until it dead-ends at the Campus Security Office near the ball fields. Stay to the right and walk past the baseball diamonds and continue through the open space gate. Turn right and walk up the Ad Schwindt Trail. This path provides a nice warm-up as it winds through a forest of bay trees with maidenhair ferns and mushrooms popping up in response to the recent rain.

Walk briefly on the Indian Valley Fire Road, then turn right, cross the stream and hike up Buzzard Burn Road. This is a steep section. Along the way, watch for dark red Indian warriors, white milkmaids and yellow buttercups.

Continue on the Wildcat Trail lined with madrone trees and manzanita. Turn left onto the Hill Ranch Trail. This is a beautiful winding path that meanders through forest, along ravines and crosses small streams. Ferns and mosses are lush in the moist shaded ravines.

Cross the footbridge, turn right and walk briefly on Indian Valley Fire Road, then turn right again and cross the footbridge on the Waterfall Trail.

The stream above the waterfall channels into a narrow shoot and slides in a frothy sheet as it slips and then tumbles over a boulder into the catch pool.

Continue uphill on the Waterfall Trail as it parallels a swift creek. Buckeye trees are just leafing after their long slumber. Watch for newts and slugs on the trail. In a few weeks, irises and mission bells will be blooming along the upper zigzags.

Crest the hill and head down the winding path to Pacheco Pond. Open areas on the hillside are sprinkled with pink shooting stars and milk maids.

To reach Indian Valley Open Space, leave Highway 101 at the Ignacio Boulevard exit. Follow Ignacio Boulevard west into the Indian Valley campus. Continue to the end of the main road and park near the Campus Security Office.  Special thanks to Tracy Dunham from the Marin IJ for her "hike of the week!"


Mt. Burdell Map

Mt. Burdell
There are bonuses connected with knowledge of Marin's trails. One is that I can go to certain trails to see specific sights. When I'm in the mood for wide-open spaces, I often hike at Point Reyes National Seashore. When I want to see fiddlenecks, I head to Mount Burdell in Novato.

The Deer Camp loop, a moderately strenuous, 3 1/2-mile hike up Mt. Burdell's western flank offers a variety of wildflowers including patches of fiddlenecks.

Start at the open space gate on San Andreas Drive and follow the San Andreas Fire Road up a steady grade to a wide meadow. You may see cattle grazing in the meadow or on other sections of Mt. Burdell. They serve the function of trimming the grasses and reducing fire danger.

Walk briefly on the Middle Burdell Fire Road and then veer left onto Deer Camp Fire Road. Large old oak trees dot the hillside. Some of the buckeye trees are sporting their showy cone-shaped white blossoms. If the air is still, you can smell their sweet scent.

The Deer Camp area, named for an old hunting camp once located here, is often lush green when the grass around it is brown. This is the site of a natural spring, one of about a dozen on Mt. Burdell.

Late spring is a transition time for wildflowers. The early spring flowers have faded and the summer wildflowers are beginning to bloom. Orange California poppies and yellow Mariposa lilies stand out. Watch for the tiny orange fiddleneck blossoms curled like the end of a violin. Purple brodiaea and magenta colored vetch vines are also in bloom. Pink farewell-to-springs are just opening which means summer is not far off.

This is a busy time for birds. Some are still building their nests, while others are already feeding their youngsters. Swallows swoop and dart as they catch insects mid-air. They are always a welcome sight not only for their amazing stunt flying, but also because they devour large numbers of mosquitoes.

Heading along the Cobblestone Fire Road, at the junction of the Middle Burdell Fire Road is the swampy area known as Hidden Lake. It is slowing becoming a meadow as water only pools there after heavy rains. Each year the pool grows smaller as the encroaching grasses become thicker. Some day it may be named Hidden Meadow.

Descending Middle Burdell Fire Road, the view extends over the town of Novato to Big Rock Ridge and east to San Francisco Bay.

To reach Mt. Burdell, leave Highway 101 at the San Marin Drive exit in Novato. Follow San Marin Drive, turn right on San Andreas Drive and park near the open space gate.


Ted Strodder
All Marin Real Estate
511 Sir Francis Drake
Greenbrae CA 94904
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Ted Strodder is one of the most experienced, top Real Estate Brokers in Marin County, with over 800 home sales in his last 25 years.  Ted works in the Central Marin office for Frank Howard Allen, the #1 Real Estate company in the county year after year.  He has been licensed since 1985 and has worked in the same building for over twenty years, remaining grounded in the community in the most productive environment in Marin.  Ted is a native to the Bay Area and can answer any question you may have about specific property values, schools, weather patterns, commute times and recreation. He has personally remodeled twenty-four homes and is considered one of the county experts on fixer uppers and construction.  He is available seven days a week and is always just an email, text or phone call away. You may reach him at the office, 415.925.3205, on his cell 415.377.5222 or toll free at 800.482.6164.

California Department of Real Estate Broker's License #01057081
 



 




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